Tulum to Mérida via Chichén Itzá

No, we are not off to see chickens. Chichén Itzá is a world-famous complex of Mayan ruins - and it certainly lived up to its name. It is immense and the ruins are a cut-above what we saw at Monte Albán (in Oaxaca). We had a lovely breakfast again as the sun came up.

We were picked up by Jorges (somewhat late) and we had a 2-hour drive along very good roads (the government is obviously mindful of tourism); we pass through villages and a time zone so we gain an hour putting us back in line with Mexico City. In the villages the vendors have set up adjacent to the speed humps (topes) - calling 10 pesos, 10 pesos, 10 pesos as we drive past. It is all terribly poor.

When we reach the complex, I believe 50 pesos exchanged hands to enable us to park around the back, avoiding the crowds. Jorges is very knowledgeable, belying his somewhat shambolic appearance (the legacy of a hard-living life I think - tequila being part of the equation). He seems to be well-respected as he takes us around and we feel somewhat privileged, limited as our knowledge of Mayan culture and architecture is.

There are stepped pyramids, temples, columned arcades and wonderful carvings. This was a sophisticated urban centre of the Mayan empire from A.D. 750 to 1200. The centrepiece structure here is the Temple of Kukulkan, also known as El Castillo. This glorious step pyramid (365 steps - one for each day of the year) demonstrates the accuracy and importance of Maya astronomy - and the heavy influence of the Toltecs, who invaded around 1000 and precipitated a merger of the two cultural traditions.

Chichén Itzá's ball court is the largest known in the Americas, measuring 168 m long and 70 m wide. During ritual games here, players tried to hit a 5.4-kg rubber ball through stone scoring hoops set high on the court walls. Competitions were very fierce with losers being put to death. El Juego de la Vida (the ballgame of life) it is called and is the oldest team sport in the world; its first court dates to the 14th century BC, 19 centuries before the Greeks and Chinese.

Jorges also explained how chicle is obtained from the resin of the chicozapote tree and is used to make chewing gum. Legend has it that the American James Adams got his idea for chewing gum by watching Mexico's President Santa Ana chewing on chicle. Adams decided to sell it sweetened and flavoured and Adams’chewing gum made him a millionaire.

Afterwards, we went to the nearby Cenote Ik-Kil. It is a large sinkhole filled with water and is about 50 m deep. From a viewpoint, we watched people jump or dive in. Even though we had our cozies on under our clothes, we weren't inclined to join the crowd. Anyway, it has been an overcast day and slightly cool.

An hour's drive brought us to Mérida. By now it was about 5 p.m. Our hacienda for the night is lovely and is handily located in the centro  histórico. This is how it looks by night and by day.

The main square had a market around it with lots of people enjoying their evening out. We had a drink at a local bar recommended by Jorges - La Negrita. Very Cuban in style: crowded, good drinks, nice music.

Dinner was simple - stomach not up to it.